Like corn tortillas, flour tortillas are best when made fresh daily. A typical breakfast in Sonora consists of warmed flour tortillas alongside scrambled eggs and machaca (dried, pounded beef), while in the afternoon the tortillas might be filled with beans and folded into a small burrito. My parents grew up in Hermosillo, the capital of Sonora, and they recall enjoying what are called chivichangas, a kind of small, griddled burrito, a fresh flour tortilla wrapped around stewed or grilled meat. On their way to baseball games they’d first stop at a restaurant across from the park for these “chivis,” which were served with a side of fresh, crunchy vegetables like radishes and lettuce.

Even though flour tortillas are a staple of the cuisine, not every family makes them. For example, my father’s family would buy them from a neighbor who had set up a comal to cook pillowy, lard-laden tortillas for all the neighbors. My mother’s parents, on the other hand, made most of their meals at home, including flour tortillas. Along with her nine siblings, she’d help her mother make the masa, form the dough into balls, and cook them over a comal for the family. It’s a recipe that evolved only slightly over the years, and which she still makes today.

Why It Works

• Using milk instead of water enhances browning and adds to the tortillas’ richness.
• A touch of baking powder ensures the tortillas are light and airy.

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